Plastic vs Resin vs Metal Miniatures

Open three different boxes of miniatures and you may find three different materials: bendy plastic parts on a sprue, crisp grey resin in a bag, and dense metal figures wrapped in foam. They can all end up on the same battlefield, but they behave very differently when you glue, convert, paint and store them. If you are weighing plastic vs resin vs metal miniatures before buying an army or a character, this guide explains the practical differences so you can choose confidently.

A Quick Summary

Feature	Plastic	Resin	Metal
Weight	Light	Light to medium	Heavy
Detail	Good to excellent, depends on mould	Often very fine	Good, can be softer or crisp
Durability	Flexible, can bend but rarely shatter	Can be brittle	Very durable, can bend
Assembly	Plastic cement, often multi-part kits	Superglue, often needs more clean-up	Superglue, sometimes pinning
Conversion friendly	Very	Moderate	Moderate
Typical cost pattern	Often economical per model in larger kits	Varies, often premium	Varies
Cleaning before painting	Light wash	Needs thorough wash	Light clean, check for oil

These are broad generalisations; individual manufacturers and products differ.

Plastic Miniatures

What they are

Most modern mass-produced miniatures are injection-moulded plastic. They arrive on frames (sprues) that you clip and glue together, or sometimes as pre-assembled snap-fit figures. Hard plastic and softer, bendy plastic are both used.

Strengths

• Good value for large forces, since multi-part kits can produce many figures.
• Flexible and forgiving, so they survive being dropped better than brittle resin.
• Easy to modify: you can swap parts, cut and reposition limbs, and use plastic cement to create strong bonds.
• Lighter to carry and store.
• Widely available for popular games.

Weaknesses

• Mould lines and small gaps are common and need cleaning.
• Some softer plastics, such as bendy plastic, resist glue and can warp over time, especially thin parts like spears.
• Fine details may be softer than on high-end resin.
• Some plastic models need warm water to straighten bent parts.

Glue and preparation

Plastic cement (also called plastic glue) softens the surfaces and welds them together, creating a strong bond on suitable plastics. For softer plastics, cyanoacrylate (superglue) is usually used, sometimes with an accelerator. Always check the manufacturer’s recommendations and follow safety instructions on adhesives. Our miniature hobby FAQ covers glue choices in more depth.

Resin Miniatures

What they are

Resin figures are cast from liquid resin in moulds, or produced by resin-based 3D printing. They are popular with boutique manufacturers and for large or complex models.

Strengths

• Excellent detail, capturing very fine textures and sharp edges.
• Dynamic poses, since casting allows shapes that are difficult for injection moulding.
• Good for large monsters and vehicles, which are often cast in resin.
• Strong painting surface once cleaned and primed.

Weaknesses

• Brittle, especially thin parts such as swords and antennae, which can snap.
• Mould release agent can remain on the surface and prevent paint adhesion, so thorough washing is crucial.
• Casting flaws such as air bubbles, flash and warping may need repair.
• Can be more expensive, depending on the producer.
• Resin dust and uncured resin require care. Follow safety guidance when sanding, wearing a mask and working in ventilated areas; uncured resin from printing can irritate skin, so use gloves as advised by the manufacturer.

Glue and preparation

Superglue is the usual adhesive. Warm water can help straighten warped parts. Pinning with a small piece of wire gives joints extra strength for heavy pieces.

Metal Miniatures

What they are

Metal figures are cast from alloys, historically often pewter or similar soft metals. Many older ranges and some current ones are metal, and many collectors have a fondness for them.

Strengths

• Durable and weighty, which feels satisfying in the hand and stands firmly on the table.
• Hard to snap, though thin parts can bend.
• Good for long-term collecting and some historical ranges.
• Often take paint beautifully once cleaned and primed.

Weaknesses

• Heavy, which affects transport and can strain delicate bases.
• Parts may require pinning to hold securely.
• Casting lines and flash often need careful filing.
• Some details can be soft, depending on the mould and age.
• Metal dust and some alloys deserve caution. Wash your hands after handling and sanding, avoid eating nearby and check the manufacturer’s safety information.

Glue and preparation

Superglue or a two-part epoxy for heavier joins. Pinning is common for large parts. Clean with soapy water to remove any mould release.

Painting Differences

The core painting process is the same: clean, prime, base coat, shade, highlight, detail. A few differences:

• Plastic takes primer well after a gentle wash. Be careful with some strong solvents, which can damage plastic.
• Resin must be thoroughly washed, typically with warm soapy water and a soft brush, before priming.
• Metal benefits from a clean surface and a good primer to aid adhesion. A tough primer helps resist chipping from handling.

Our guide to priming and base coating covers primer choice and technique.

Which Material for Which Purpose?

Large armies for wargaming

Plastic usually makes sense because of cost and ease of assembly. Many games publish plastic kits for the core troops.

Characters, heroes and display models

Resin and metal are both strong choices, especially for detail and sculpt quality.

Roleplaying characters

Whatever you like. Many players choose metal or resin for a unique figure, and plastic for monsters and non-player characters.

Beginners

Plastic is a friendly starting point: forgiving, cheap and easy to experiment on. Our beginner painting guide has more advice.

Collectors and fans of older ranges

Metal has a loyal following. If you buy second-hand, check for missing parts and metal fatigue.

Transport and storage

Plastic is light, metal is heavy and resin is fragile. Foam trays and cases protect all of them.

Cost and Value Considerations

Pricing depends on manufacturer, size and scarcity, so we avoid precise figures. In general:

• Large plastic kits often offer a good price-per-model.
• Resin and metal specialist figures can cost more, though not always.
• Second-hand markets provide bargains but check condition.

Think about the total cost, including glue, primer and paint, and the time you will spend on preparation.

Mixed-Material Collections

It is entirely normal to have all three on your shelf. If you paint them together, a consistent primer and paint scheme helps them look like a unified force. For basing, use the same texture and colours.

Miniature Hobby FAQs: Glue, Primer and Varnish
3D-Printed Miniatures: Where the Hobby Is Heading in 2026

Frequently Asked Questions

Which material is best for beginners?
Plastic, in most cases. It is forgiving, easy to glue and usually the cheapest way to practise.

Is resin harder to paint?
Not once it has been washed and primed. The main trap is leftover mould release agent, so clean thoroughly.

Do metal miniatures need to be pinned?
Heavy joins often benefit from pinning, since superglue alone may not hold weight over time.

Can I mix plastic, resin and metal on one model?
Yes, with the right adhesives, usually superglue. Test the bond before committing.

Conclusion

Plastic is light, versatile and economical; resin offers striking detail but needs careful handling; metal is tough and satisfying but heavy. Choose according to the job: plastic for large forces and conversions, resin for detailed centrepieces, and metal for characters or favourite ranges. Whichever you pick, wash, prime and handle each material with its own quirks in mind, and enjoy the variety on your shelf.