How to Use Washes and Drybrushing for Quick Results
If you have a whole army to paint and a limited number of evenings, two techniques deserve a place in your toolbox: washes and drybrushing. Used together, washes and drybrushing can take a flat base-coated model to something that looks shaded, textured and ready for the table in a fraction of the time that careful blending would need. They are simple, forgiving and easy to learn, but a few small habits make the difference between “quick and tidy” and “quick and messy”.
The Idea Behind Both Techniques
Miniatures are tiny sculptures. Real objects have shadows in their recesses and brighter edges on raised parts. A wash puts darkness into the recesses; drybrushing adds light to the raised parts. Combined, they mimic depth without the need to blend smooth gradients.
What Is a Wash?
A wash is a very thin, runny paint, usually dark or tinted, that settles into the creases and crevices of a model. Because it is thin, it stains the surface slightly while collecting in the recesses, creating natural-looking shadows.
Ways to get a wash
- Ready-made washes sold by hobby paint ranges, often called shades or washes.
- Homemade washes made by thinning ordinary paint with water or a medium until it is the consistency of tinted water.
Homemade washes cost less and let you control colour. Ready-made ones are consistent and convenient. Both work.
When to use a wash
- Over a base coat to emphasise recesses in armour, cloth and skin.
- To tone down a colour that looks too bright.
- To add dirt and grime for a battle-worn look.
How to apply a wash: step by step
- Base coat first. Paint the area in its main colour and let it dry completely.
- Stir or shake the wash so pigment is evenly mixed.
- Load the brush modestly. Remove excess on kitchen roll so it does not flood the model.
- Touch the brush into the recesses. Capillary action pulls the wash into the crevices. You do not need to scrub it over the whole surface.
- Control pooling. If the wash gathers in flat areas, pick it up with a clean, damp brush.
- Leave it to dry undisturbed. Drying time depends on thickness and temperature.
- Correct if necessary. If the wash leaves tide marks, a thin glaze of the base colour can smooth the transition.
Choosing the wash colour
| Base colour | Wash that often works well | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Skin tones | Warm brown or reddish brown | Natural shadows |
| Metals (silver, steel) | Black or dark brown | Weathered look |
| Gold and brass | Brown or reddish-brown | Rich, warm depth |
| White or pale colours | Grey or a pale brown | Soft shadows without muddying |
| Green or blue cloth | A darker version of the same hue | Keeps colour clean |
A black wash is strong and can make colours dull. Experiment on a spare model before applying it everywhere.
What Is Drybrushing?
Drybrushing means loading a brush with paint, wiping most of it off on kitchen roll, and lightly dragging the nearly dry bristles across the model. The paint catches only the raised edges and textures, leaving the recesses untouched.
When to use drybrushing
- On textured surfaces such as fur, rocks, rough armour, cloth folds and terrain.
- To pick out raised details quickly.
- For basing, such as sand or rubble.
How to drybrush: step by step
- Use the right brush. An old, flat or stiff brush works best. Drybrushing wears out bristles, so avoid using your good detail brush.
- Choose a lighter colour than the base coat, typically a mix of the base colour with a lighter shade.
- Load a small amount of paint onto the brush.
- Wipe the brush on kitchen roll until almost no paint comes off. When you flick the bristles, you should see nearly none.
- Brush lightly across the model with quick, back-and-forth motions, holding the brush at a slight angle. Let the bristle tips touch raised areas.
- Build up gradually. Add several light passes rather than one heavy one.
- Step up the highlight. For a second layer, mix in a little more of the lighter colour and drybrush a smaller area.
Avoid chalky results
Overloaded brushes leave a chalky, grainy look. If this happens, glaze over the area with a thin wash of the base colour, or apply another light layer of the base colour to blend. Using a slightly damp brush on a dry surface can also soften the effect.
Washes and Drybrushing Together: A Quick Workflow
This sequence suits tabletop-standard armies and is easy to repeat.
- Prime the model.
- Base coat each area with thin coats.
- Wash the recesses with a suitable shade.
- Drybrush raised areas with a lighter tone, or edge-highlight with the side of a small brush.
- Paint small details such as eyes, gems and buckles.
- Finish the base.
Following the same routine across the whole army gives consistency, which can matter more than the quality of any single model. Our article on priming and base coating explains steps one and two in more detail.
Common Problems and Fixes
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Tide marks after a wash | Wash pooled and dried unevenly | Use less wash, wick away excess, glaze to correct |
| Wash makes everything too dark | Colour too strong or too much applied | Use a lighter wash, thin it more, or apply selectively |
| Drybrushing looks chalky | Too much paint on the brush | Wipe more, use a lighter touch, glaze to blend |
| Paint ends up in recesses | Brush too loaded or pressed too hard | Wipe more, use a gentle motion |
| Bristles splay and wear quickly | Using a good brush for drybrushing | Dedicate a cheap brush for this technique |
| Gloss patches | Medium in the wash dried shiny | Use a matt varnish later or choose matt washes |
When Not to Use These Techniques
Washes and drybrushing are not magic. They are less suited to smooth, flat surfaces like polished armour plates or pristine fabric, where a more careful edge highlight or glaze is better. They can also look too rough on display pieces where fine gradients are expected. In such cases, treat these methods as a first layer before more careful work.
Tips for Speed Without Sacrificing Quality
- Batch your work. Wash a whole squad at once, then drybrush them together.
- Use a wet palette so thinned paint stays usable.
- Work in good light so you can see where the wash has gathered.
- Test on a spare model whenever you try a new colour combination.
- Wash selectively. You can use different washes on different areas instead of covering everything with one colour.
- Look at the model from arm’s length. If it looks right from there, it will look right on the table.
If you are still collecting supplies, our guide to miniature painting for beginners lists essential tools, and our paint comparison helps you choose a range.
Best Paint Brands for Miniatures Compared
Miniature Painting for Beginners: Tools and First Steps
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make my own wash?
Yes. Thin a darker paint with water or a medium until it flows like tinted water. Test it on a spare model first to check the effect.
Do I need a special brush for drybrushing?
Not a special one, but an old, sturdy brush is best because the technique wears bristles. Avoid using a fine detail brush.
Should I varnish after washing and drybrushing?
A varnish is optional but helpful for protecting the finish. Test on a spare model and follow the product instructions.
Why does my wash look blotchy?
It is probably too thick, pooled in flat areas or applied over a glossy surface. Thin it further, remove the excess and try again.
Conclusion
Washes add shadows, drybrushing adds highlights, and together they give you a fast route to a model that looks shaded and textured. Remember the essentials: base coat first, load the wash lightly, wipe the drybrush almost dry and build up in thin layers. Try the full sequence on a single test model this week, then repeat it across a squad. You will see how much quality a little technique buys you for a small amount of time.